History of Lace: Documenting Modern Times

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This is the third & last installment in the series entitled ‘History of Lace.’ You can find the first article here, and the second here.

It is true that lace-making suffered a great decline during the recession that was associated with the French Revolution. However, it came back to rule in the late 1800s.

A woman posing in an elegant gown fully made of lace, in 1890.

Two thumbs up to Queen Victoria for showing endless admiration to lace back in 1897. Note the matching skirt, veil, and fan! (If it’s not your wedding dress, only a royalty can do that!)

Queen Victoria wearing the Diamond Collet Neck...

Queen Victoria back in 1897, photographed by W. & D. Downey. Image via Wikipedia. Image via Wikipedia

This photo by Alexi Lubomirski beautifully illustrates the elegance of lace in the 1020′s.

1920's Summer by Alexi Lubomirski, for Vogue Germany. (March 2009)

I love the way lace is proudly worn by Spanish women, in the form of a Mantilla. Made of silk and lace, it is associated with deeply rooted traditions, and devotional practices of women in Catholicism. Being very fond of it, Queen Isabel II of Spain was the one who brought it into the 19th century Spanish high society, declaring it as a symbol of elegance, as it still is today. Brides from all over the world has adopted this trend over the past couple of centuries.

A young Mexican woman poses in a black Mantilla costume. Photo by Clifton Adams/National Geographic Stock. (1928)

English: Isabel II of Spain as Queen

Queen Isabel II of Spain. Notice the Lace in the dress & veil. Image via Wikipedia

Designed by MGM’s Helen Rose, using 25 yards of silk taffeta, almost 100 yards of tulle, as well as a 125-years-old Valenciennes rose point lace, while the veil covered with lace lovebirds and thousands of seed pearls… Here’s a tribute to the one & only Grace Kelly, wearing the most iconic lace wedding dress. Ever. Period.

Wedding dress of Grace Kelly

Grace Kelly was wed to Prince Rainier III of Monaco, on the 19th of April, 1956. Image via Wikipedia

Princess Grace’s wedding dress served as an inspiration, fifty-five years later, for Kate Middleton, who married Prince William in a dress designed by Sarah Burton, for Alexander McQueen.

Kate Middleton's wedding dress details. Photo by AFP. Source: The Guardian

How about another perspective on the origins of the custom of integrating lace into wedding dresses?

As told by Stefania from myitalianwedding.co.uk, it was believed that the story behind lace-making in Burano, Italy, goes as the following: Once upon a time, there was a fisherman. He was fishing in the lagoon on his wedding eve, when a siren tried to seduce him with her enchanting music. He resisted her, and while she was leaving, she bit his boat with her tail… & from the foam of the water, a wonderful veil came out. The fisherman decided to give it to his bride.

On the day of the wedding, the bride was so beautiful that all the girls of Burano tried to make a veil as beautiful as hers, starting the well-known tradition of Burano embroidery from that day on… (Find Barbara Zanon Photography here)

Photographed by Barbara Zanon

Finally, to emphasize the incredible craftsmanship lace-making requires, I found a great article here, where Sylvie reports that the following wedding dress, made at end of the 19th century in Burano, took 5 years to be completed by 21 women! (Find Calvina Photography here)

Photo by Calvina Photography

History of Lace: A Collection of Portraits

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Here’s a second installment in the series entitled ‘History of Lace.’ You can find the first article here

Without much talk, following are some works of art of those who have been image setters throughout the centuries.

Catherine de Medici, the woman who first introduced lace-making in France. Notice the exaggerated upright Venicien lace collar in her portrait:

Catherine de Medici (1621). Image via Wikipedia

Catherine of Braganza, the Queen wife of Charles II. Dirk Stoop (1660). Image via Wikipedia

Although Catherine of Braganza was not much popular in England, for she was a protestant, and she failed to bring an heir to the throne, however, she was the one who introduced the custom of drinking tea in England, in addition to using the fork at the royal dining tables. It’s difficult not to admire her portrayed simple elegance!

It was widely believed that Queen Elizabeth I, known as the Virgin Queen, loved to wear Lace collars in a form that mimics halos of 14th century Madonnas, to signal purity:

Queen Elizabeth I, a 16th century influential figure. A portrait attributed to Georges Gower.

By the 17th century, lace was so common in Europe that it was used to decorate everything at the nobility mansions, from doorknobs and pillow cases to dresses:

The Lacemaker by Johannes Vermeer, 17th century.

Charles I. was executed on the 30th of January, 1649, for refusing to accept parliament’s rights to cut off expenditure, and control taxes.

Charles I & Henrietta Maria of England, by Van Dyck.

How ridiculously extravagant showing off ones wealth could be? Prince Charles Louis & his brother, Prince Rupert, used to wear lace collars over their metallic body armors!

Prince Charles Louis and Prince Rupert. Van Dyck, 1637. Image via Wikipedia

Marie Antoinette, by François-Hubert Drouais, was painted in 1773, while she was still 18.

Franz Xavier Winterhalter - 'Portrait of Empress Eugenie', 1894

Finally, I couldn’t help but notice that even though I have nothing against digital painting and illustration (in fact, I’m taking beginner courses myself!), it’s so sad that such elaborate, fine and detail-oriented art of portrait painting is going extinct…

 

Coming up next, ‘History of Lace: Documenting Modern Times.

History of Lace: The Earliest Traces in Pictures

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This is the first installment of a series of articles entitled ‘History of Lace,’ that will be posted in succession.

As I have always been fascinated by hand made lace, I have tried to collect information about the history of this inspiring craft, and how it spread in Europe.

The first steps of lace-making were taken in the lands Pharaohs of Egypt, where hair nets and fine flax clothes, decorated with colored threads, precious stones and gold,  were found in many tombs of the royalty in the Thebes, some dating to about 2500 BC.

An ancient specimen from a Roman cemetery in Middle Egypt

The romans later on caught the trend, and adorned the edges of their robes with golden lace threads. Gradually, the craft of lace-making was developed into numerous types, by several cultures, each customizing its own design trends and methods.

17th century Venetian Rose Point

A fine example of antique gold lace was discovered in St Cuthbert’s coffin, who died in 685 A.D. But not until the fifteenth century did this beautiful fabric, now called ‘point lace,’ became widely spread in Europe. It was first mastered by the nuns in Venice in order to add to the income of their convents. Another early traces in Europe go back to Flanders, Belgium.

France, as always, lead the train of fashion in the sixteenth century. Under the name of ‘Lacis,’ it became known during the reign of Catherine de Medici (1519-1589), who summoned the most famous lace maker and designer in Venice, Federico di Vinciolo, to live, teach and work in France. But it was during the age of the Grande Monarque, Louis XIV that the French lace matched the perfection of that made in Venice.

Original Patterns designed by Vinciolo

French imitation of the old Point Coupe of Italy

English: Lace curtain Français : Rideau de den...

Lace Curtain. Image via Wikipedia

With the mass persecution of the Protestants, they fled to England, bringing with them their arts of lace-making and silk weaving. This led to the introduction of English lace, mainly during the reign of Queen Mary. But not until Queen Elizabeth’s times that lace became so trendy, and was developed in various shapes and forms. At that time, lace was filthy expensive, to the extent that it was rumored that nobility gentlemen sold their estates in order to buy lace gifts to impress their adornments!

Early English samples showing cut & drawn work

Royal Lace detail

Royal Lace Detail. Image via Wikipedia

Seventeenth Century trimmed collar, with fine Reticella lace. (S.K.M. Collection)

English: An example of old valuable framed lac...

An example of old valuable framed lace for commercial use in Brugge, Nederland. Image via Wikipedia

In short, the art of lace-making tells a great deal about both the crafter, and the consumer. The former definitely owns a lot of patience (for a simple mistake means unwinding hours, if not days, of hard work), attention to details, and perfectionism. While the latter is definitely a person who strives to constantly be unique, by being immersed in the pleasures and the beauty of this world, which is a privilege that was only given to those of a certain prestige, the non-working class, during the older times.

Coming up next, ‘History of Lace: A Collection of Portraits,’

& ‘History of Lace: Documenting Modern Times.

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